Fawning Over Foundations

When it comes to foundation construction in Canada, there are essentially 3 methods to consider: Block, Poured or ICF. Each is made with concrete, they all must be constructed on top of a concrete footing, and proper waterproofing, insulation and drainage is a must. This all sounds great, but what’s the difference?
Concrete Block
Let’s start with the quick and dirty solution. Block foundations are constructed by arranging a series of concrete blocks on top one another, each being held together with mortar. They are constructed in a straightforward manner, don’t require forming, require little maintenance, and are pretty much available everywhere. As a result, a talented mason can build the foundation relatively cheaply and quickly.
However, it’s not uncommon for moisture to weep through the walls and cause all sorts of problems. If improperly waterproofed, I suppose each approach is vulnerable to moisture in one way or another, but block construction is especially susceptible because of the amount of mortar used and the porous nature of the blocks themselves.
Poured Concrete
Poured walls are also quite common, however their construction is a little more involved when compared to a block wall. Before the concrete can be poured, temporary forms must first be erected. These forms create a hollow structure in which the concrete is poured, and they remain in place for about a day until the concrete has started to cure. As a result, labour costs are greater as you’ll need a crew to erect and dismantle the forming, plus you’ll need to coordinate the concrete delivery and pour.
Poured walls do result in a stronger structure (so long as the concrete mix is correct), so you can typically go deeper than you could with a block wall. Definitely a plus if you’re looking for higher basement ceilings.
Insulated Concrete Forms
We opted for ICFs, which are somewhat of a hybrid in that they require both blocks and poured concrete. According to the trusty Wiki, ICFs are described as a “stay-in-place formwork for energy-efficient, cast-in-place reinforced-concrete walls”.
There are a variety of companies that offer a variety of ICF solutions, but they all basically work the same way—Foundation walls are erected out of reinforced polystyrene foam blocks, and those blocks are then filled with concrete. Rebar is often inserted or integrated into the block for added strength, and temporary shoring is required for additional support during the pour.
ICFs are considered the “greener” solution because of the vast benefits they afford; even temperature, fewer drafts, fewer hot and cold spots, consistent floor-to-ceiling temperature, noise reduction, strength, and durability. But the real beauty of ICFs is the inherent insulation value that comes with the foam. There appears to be lot of varying opinions on the matter, but if the thermal mass and air-sealing effects of the concrete are considered, it’s argued that the effective R-value of ICFs is somewhere around 40+.
ICF foundations will ultimately cost more than other two solutions, but you’ll make up the difference in materials and labour costs as you don’t have to frame or insulate the basement (drywall affixes directly to furring strips built into the blocks), plus the energy savings that result from the higher R-values.
Once again, the greener solution costs more up front… however, it also appears to be a smarter investment with all things considered.
Photos via finehomebuilding.com & Flickr
Post Tags: block, concrete, foundation, ICFs, walls

I can’t wait to see this project done. I’m pretty excited about it!
— posted on June 27, 2008Thanks Brad… we’re pretty excited too!
— posted on June 27, 2008Jeremy:
Great project, and so far nice description of the materials trade-offs. Neat idea to thoroughly document all phases, write the articles, and do the book.
I have to ask you, though: Did you seriously consider ICF construction for the above-grade exterior walls as well as just the basement?
I would be interested to hear about your rationale. I have been looking at a product called Rastra (www.rastra.com) that can be used in that way.
Michael Clarke
— posted on October 31, 2008Hi Michael – indeed, we did consider ICF to the roof (I spoke about it here). Quite frankly, I would have preferred to go ICF to the roof – however there were a few complications that came with that decision.
- Price was another factor. Taking everything into account, ICFs were more expensive. Now, it wasn’t a huge difference, but it was a difference nonetheless… and we really didn’t have any additional wiggle room in the budget.
— posted on November 10, 2008I can’t speak to the Rastra product, but we used Nudura for our foundation and we would have used it for the entire structure had we gone that route.
Hi Jeremy,
— posted on January 11, 2009Very nice job covering the project! Information detailed and well organized. Now to my questions:
(1) I am planning on starting on a new 2-storey 42’x38’ open concept house in Toronto this spring. The design is ready, materials specification and structural engineering is the next step. For external walls, I am considering ICF all the way. From one of your posts above, I see you briefly thought about doing the same but decided against it for a number or reasons, one of which was the budget. I do know that building with ICF is on average more expensive than ICF basement followed by traditional framing. However, in my opinion, our design is pretty simple from ICF point of view (the house is rectangular with virtually no other turns, window openings are large and horizontally aligned, there is no split levels, there is no below-grade garage nor walk-out to the backyard) so I think the difference should not be that big. I talked to a few builders and a couple of engineers but no one was able to say how much more expensive it is (percentage-wise, dollar-wise, or both). It sounds like you did your own comparison for your own project and, if you are at liberty to discuss it, I would appreciate if you could say how the two options compared in your case.
(2) Have you done any routing of wires or pipes along your basement ICF yet? I am worried about increased wall thickness due to pipes and wires. For this reason, most of our pipes and wires I am planning to route through interior wood-frame walls. However, some wiring and at least one sewage pipe (4’’) will have to go along exterior walls but I am hoping to conceal them in the same “boxes” that will be used for visual separation of open-concept areas. Any thoughts, or experience on this topic?
(3) Did you go with floor heating in the basement? I want to put floor heating in the basement floor myself but, since there will be two major areas in my basement, I am thinking of actually having two separate circuits connected in parallel to one heater. One circuit would be always on while the other I could shut off manually when I don’t need it. My designer (not an engineer) hinted that I would need two completely independent systems (i.e. two heaters, too) which, according to him, would be essentially twice the cost. I am an engineer (of a different type) and this is contrary to my engineering gut-feel. Either way, if you did go with floor heating, do you have a rough idea how much it added to the cost of the project?
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Vlado
Hey Vlado – I just realized I hadn’t responded to this… so excuse my tardiness.
Regarding the cost difference between ICF and traditional stick construction – I don’t know if I can give you an accurate cost comparison, but if I remember correctly, it was somewhere in the neighborhood of 10-15% more expensive. That said, it would have also been 10-15% faster to construct as well. That said, if your design is straightforward, you should also consider SIPs. Odds are they’ll be cheaper.
Regardless of ICFs or SIPs, you’ll still have the same issues running wires – that is, you’ll have to cut into the panels to do so. In the case of SIPs, you can get the panels delivered with wiring channels already cut through the center (which makes running wire a million times easier). I’m not 100% sure how you’d handle piping though – I suppose you could run everything through interior walls, but I can see how that would have been a pain in the ass for us on the first and second floors. We had a few pipes that needed to be run along exterior walls, but we strapped out wall to conceal them.
We didn’t run in-floor heating in the basement, mainly because of price. To do so, we would have needed a boiler that was completely separate from our forced air HVAC system. I don’t know much about radiant systems, so I’m not entirely sure if you’d be able to do what you’re describing… sorry!
Best of luck.
— posted on February 17, 2009Hi Jeremy,
Never thanked you for your reply – so, thank you! As usual, congratulations on well-done web site. I also drove by your construction site recently – awesome modern house!
Since my last post, we finalized our own project plans and engaged in construction of our new home. And yes, in the end we did decide to go ICF all the way. I started a web site where I, as much as time permits, I explain, among other things, why we decided to go all-ICF. The site is at http://www.AllIcfHouse.com.
In terms of running wires, pipes and ducts… well, the wires, where they run along exterior walls, I am going to burry in the ICF foam. Pipes are going to be a little bit more difficult but I had to take these matters into my own hands when it comes to making decisions on routing so I think I have solutions with reasonable trade-offs. The greatest concern is the duct work which is mostly not related to ICF but to the fact that the house is an open-concept design, with few interior walls on the main floor. I brought this up at least a couple of times during design stage but was told that will be done later. I regret that I did not push for it as it turned out to have many obstacles. Unless we go for ugly bulk-heads or otherwise conceal the duct work in pretty much EVERY SINGLE ROOM on the main floor. My wife and I (both engineers) already found some solutions but there is more to go. I briefly touch this topic at our http://www.AllIcfHouse.com, too.
And lastly, after much consideration, we opted for in-floor heating in the basement. The main reasons for and against it were that it is either now or never (before basement slab is poured) but then again will not be finishing the basement any time soon. In the end, we decided to get it. One reason is that we thought the extra from our builder was reasonable. The other reason is that we will own the hot water tank anyway (instead of renting it) and will be getting the combo type of the unit. In addition to hot water, it has a coil insert inside the tank that is used for in-floor heating (when turned on).
Best regards,
— posted on May 25, 2009Vlado