• Jan 11

Off To A Busy New Year

ducts

Sure, things slowed down as we approached Christmas, but with New Years behind us, there’s definitely been some action at the house and it appears we’ve fully awoken from the holiday-induced coma.

The plumbing is well underway, with most of the drains and vents already in place. As I mentioned back in May (I can’t believe it was that long ago), we’ll be running PEX throughout the house as well. As I suspected, we’ll be running a hybrid-manifold setup, with dedicated lines running to some fixtures and branch runs connecting the rest. If all goes according to plan, everything should be completed in the next few weeks.

The last of the windows arrived on Friday, which means we’ll finally be able to get the house entirely closed in. With the amount of snow and rain we’ve had this season, I really wish we had installed those windows before the holidays, but we decided to hold off and wait until everything was fully framed before we placed the final order. It’s a good thing too, because the dimensions of the large clerestory window changed once the framing was complete… and you can’t exactly return a custom-ordered window of that size.

The ductwork has been installed on the first and second floor, but there’s still plenty of work to be done in the basement. All of the components have been measured and ordered, so it’s just a matter of installation at this point. Oh, and I suppose we’ll actually have to install the various pieces of equipment as well… not that it actually matters at the moment. We can’t fire everything up until we have the gas connected and at the moment, we have to wait something like 40 days until Enbridge will come and hook us up. We anticipated a delay, but I’m shocked it’s going to take this long as we applied for our hookup weeks ago (well before the holiday if I’m not mistaken).

  • Dec 30

Letting The Sun In

Sun Tunnel

Things have been a little slow around the house this past week (‘tis the season, right?), so there hasn’t been much progress of late, however I did manage to climb up on the roof again to take a closer look at the completed roof and sun tunnel installation. As I mentioned previously, we have two Velux _“Rigid Low Profile Sun Tunnel Skylights”_ in the house, one in the walk-in closet and another in the en-suite bathroom.

The instructions state that they’re intended for pitched roofs only (between 15° and 60°), but they work fine so long as they’re raised up and away from possible snow buildup. In our case, they are installed on a box that stands about a foot off the roof, with the waterproof membrane covering the sides and the factory flashing on top. We had to bend the flashing to properly fit the box (which caused the paint to chip off at the edges), but everything appears to fit nicely. We’ll have to repair and paint the flashing later so it’ll standup to the weather well, plus we obviously need to caulk everything too.

The tunnels themselves are actually pretty rudimentary, made up of a highly-reflective metal tube that connects into the dome on the roof. The tube extends down through the roof and once the drywall has been installed, a defuser is installed into the bottom, flush with the ceiling.

At $270 each, they’re relatively inexpensive and I’m quite impressed with the amount of light they let into each room. However, that extra light is a little concerning given its proximity to the bedroom (I’d prefer there wasn’t a lot of light spilling into the bedroom first thing in the morning). To combat this issue, we’ve installed a pocket door at the entrance of the walk-in closet that will allow us to blackout the room. I’m all for the extra natural light… but only when we’re actually awake.

  • Dec 11

Concrete In The Cold

Cement In The Cold

There’s been plenty of freezing rain over the last few days and for some reason, I thought it would be a bright idea to climb up on the roof to take the photo above. I saw the truck (and more importantly, the stark contrast between it and the operator’s orange jacket) and thought to myself “So what if you can’t feel you hands, you’ll still be able to climb that ladder. Get up there and take that photo.” So up I went, camera in hand.

It was a little snowy and icy up there, but all in all not too bad. For the most part the roofing is complete, however there are still a few things that need to be completed. The sides of the clerestory are going to be wrapped in Vapor Shield (thanks to everyone who suggested it) to further protect it and the windows need to be installed (which will hopefully happen next week), but everything else is pretty much done. While I was up there, I figured I might as well snap a few shots of the drains with their strainers installed so you can get a better sense of how they’ll look/work. Pretty exciting stuff, I know.

You’ll also notice the 2 built-up boxes on the roof—these are for the sun tunnels we’ll have in the en-suite bathroom and walk-in (walk-through?) closet. We decided to use Velux Low Profile sun tunnels, both of which should paint their respective rooms with plenty of natural light. The instructions state that they’re intended for pitched roofs only (between 15° and 60°), but we contacted the manufacturer and they said we’d be fine if we simply raised them up and away from possible snow buildup. I don’t know the exact measurement, but I think they stand somewhere around 12” off the roof.

Concrete Truck After exhausting my photographic options on the roof, I made my way back down to safety and proceeded into the basement. Well, not actually into the basement, but I did uncover the opening for the stairway so I could lean in and take some shots. That’s close enough, right? Of course, none of them turned out because it was kinda’ dark down there, so you’ll have to take my word that the next few paragraphs are legit. Picture this…

I hadn’t originally intended on putting insulation under the slab, but after a few persuasive arguments (thanks Scott!) I was convinced otherwise. Once the drains were run, we tamped the gravel down and covered everything with vapor barrier. All of the seams were tuck taped and then 1” of rigid foam insulation was laid. 2” would have been ideal, but I just couldn’t justify the added costs. Hell, I really couldn’t justify the cost of 1”, but what are you gonna’ to do? We’ll at least see some gains from the thermal break between the slab and the ground, which is better than nothing I suppose. Regardless, all of those seams were Tuck Taped as well and everything was covered up with concrete.

Now, concrete doesn’t like the cold particularly much, so we needed to block all of the openings and run a heater down there. Of course, this just made everything foggy, but at least it looked warm and toasty. I’m not too sure how long the heater will be running down there, but it’s currently sitting on a temporary shelf that’s suspended from the ceiling. I suppose you would typically rent these things, but apparently it only cost a little more to purchase it outright and I’m now the proud owner of a 70,000 BTU/Hr. Kerosene Forced Air Heater with built-in thermostat. I guess I’ll sell it on Craigslist when we’re done (or maybe I can convince Steve that he needs a snazzy heater for his next project?!)

  • Dec 04

Roof Torch Down

We began weatherproofing the roof this week, despite a continued beatdown from Mother Nature. The sky has been perpetually grey and in between the snow and rain, we’ve been rolling out and torching down a SBS modified bitumen membrane (I know you want to say that 5 times fast).

We’re using a product called TorchFlex, which is described as:

A strong reinforcing mat (polyester or fiberglass) which is coated with SBS modified bitumen. Styrene-Butadiene-Styrene (SBS) is a rubber-based chemical that endows the asphalt with some amazing qualities: superior elasticity, excellent moisture resistance, and exceptional cold weather flexibility. The end result is a long-lasting, durable membrane which can be applied to a wide variety of surfaces on roofs of almost any shape or design.

Installation seems pretty straightforward—The roof was first sprayed with an asphalt primer and then covered with sheets of fire-retardant protector board. Two layers of the TouchFlex were then rolled out and affixed by “heat-welding the membrane, fusing it to the protector board and using the same process to seal the seams.” Once that’s all complete, all of the aluminum flashing will be installed and everything will be caulked.

For aesthetic reasons, we’ve also foregone traditional eavestroughs in favour of a parapet with hoppers (or flow control roof drains). These have built-in strainers that will prevent large debris from clogging them, further reducing the likelihood of a leak. The rear downspouts will be connected to a rainwater tank (probably a Rainwater HOG) which will be used for irrigation in the backyard, and the other downspouts will direct their runoff to an underground drainage pit. This pit is also connected to our weeping tile, with the sole purpose of capturing the excess rainwater and allowing it to naturally dissipate into the soil (as opposed to, oh, running back into our house… which has happened to a few or our neighbours). Apparently we have incredibly dense soil that doesn’t absorb water particularly well.

We had also considered a green roof early on, however it was FAR more expensive than we expected. Beyond the plants themselves, you also have to account for the added waterproofing requirements, plus the increased structural demands (waterproofing and drainage layers, plus the soil, plus the plants, plus the water they hold). And let’s not forget that the plants need to be watered on a semi-regular basis, which meant we needed roof access. There are a few lower maintenance solutions, but they were all something we simply couldn’t swing (read: afford).

  • Nov 26

Of Insulation & HVAC

One of our goals with this project has been to construct the most energy efficient and eco-friendly building envelope possible. This has required that we pay close attention to the various insulation values and invest in the most efficient HVAC system we can afford. Regarding the insulation, it’s looking like we’ll have the following:

  • Basement Walls: R-22.4+ (ICF)
  • Headers: R-36.4 (2” exterior rigid + 4” sprayfoam)
  • Exterior Walls: R-32 (2” exterior rigid + interior Roxul)
  • Roof: R-40 (6” sprayfoam)
  • Overhangs & Garage Ceiling: R-62 (9.5” sprayfoam)
  • Under Garage: R-10 (2” rigid)

    The R-value of the overhangs and garage ceiling seems like overkill to me, however our mechanical engineer insists that we completely fill the void to eliminate air movement and reduce the potential for mould buildup. It’s obviously hard to argue with that. We had originally planned on using a closed-cell sprayfoam everywhere, however that proved to be far too expensive. As a result, we’ve decided to use 2” rigid panels on the exterior, plus Roxul on the interior.

    We also need to make some decisions in regards to the actual equipment. We had originally considered geothermal as a possible solution, however it was incredibly cost-prohibitive when we ran the numbers (cheap to run, expensive as hell to install). As a result, we decided to go with something a little more traditional and we’re currently leaning towards the Carrier family. Specifically, we’re considering the following:

  • Infinity Zone Control
  • Infinity 96 Gas Furnace
  • Infinity Series Heat Pump
  • Performance Heat Recovery Ventilator
  • Performance Series Humidifier
  • Infinity Air Purifier

    I’m not 100% sure if we really need an air purifier, but it would be an obvious plus. I’m also unsure about the heat pump. As I’ve mentioned before, a heat pump works as both an air conditioner and a heater. However, it only operates as a heater in “cool” temperatures which means it’s unusable when the temperature drops below -3°C. Given the Canadian temperatures, I’m unsure if the heat pump really makes sense or if we’d be better off relying solely on the furnace for heating and a more efficient air conditioner for cooling?

    Similarly, while I’m digging the Carrier products, our HVAC installer is recommending KeepRite instead. Everything I’ve read online suggests that they’re decent (and cheaper), but not as good as the Carrier offering. I’m not exactly looking for the best of the best, but I really like what the Infinity line have to offer. In particular, the control unit supports up to 8 zones in the house and can independently control every facet of the system (heating, cooling, humidity, fan speed, ventilation, etc.) Obviously this requires that each unit be part of the Infinity line, but it’ll mean the system is also working as efficiently as possible. They may be cheaper, but I can’t imagine the KeepRite products are really comparable in this regard?

    Photo via Flickr user targophoto.com>

  • Nov 17

It Looks Flat, But It’s Not

We’ve obviously shied away from a traditionally pitched roof, however one common misconception about the house is that the roof is flat. While it definitely appears that way from the ground, it actually slopes away from the structure at around 2 degrees. It doesn’t seem like much, but it’s enough to keep the water moving and prevent it from pooling.

The slope is actually quite pronounced when you’re looking at the lower roof from inside the house (mainly because it simply slopes from one side to another). However, the upper roof is a different story altogether. The roof has 2 peaks (on both sids of the clerestory) with each sloping away in 3 different directions. I’m not 100% sure how the framers figure out the various angles (and it’s actually hurting my brain just thinking about it), but I went up on the roof this afternoon and was amazed how well it was assembled. We’ve had quite a lot of rain over the last few days, but other than a little frost (and the snow that was falling from the sky) it was essentially bone dry up there. Of course the plywood sheathing isn’t exactly watertight and I assume a lot of water simply washed through the cracks, but there definitely wasn’t any pooling up there. I’d say that’s a good sign, no?

We had originally considered a product called PosiSlope, which is described as a “factory pre-designed tapered roof insulation and drainage system”. It’s essentially a large foam puzzle that gets assembled on the roof, with pieces custom made based on your drawings. Compared to strapping out the roof and sloping by hand, it’s assembled and installed in a fraction of the time, plus it has an inherent R-value… which is an obvious plus. Of course, it’s also happened to exceed our budget by just a few dollars. Sigh.

The next step is waterproofing the roof, although I don’t know the exact approach we’re going to take yet. I assume it’ll be a torch-down solution of some kind, but I could be wrong. We’re also planning on covering the entire clerestory (top and sides) with Ice & Water Shield to ensure it’s completely watertight. Well, as watertight as it can be… I suppose nothing is 100%. Regardless, I’m becoming somewhat paranoid about the clerestory leaking and I want to do everything I can to ensure it stays nice and dry.

PB167112.JPG PB167109.JPG PB167093.JPG PB167122.JPGPB167108.JPG

  • Nov 10

Structured Analysis

We’re expecting to finish the framing this week, so I figured this might be an appropriate time to reflect on what we encountered along the way. Aside from a few tweaks, I’d say the framing has turned out quite well. However, that’s not to say we haven’t encountered a few unexpected complexities… most of which stemmed from the specifics outlined in the structural drawings.

I’m obviously in no position to question what our structural engineer has outlined, but each of the trades has expressed the opinion that our home is over-engineered. I don’t know if it really matters at this point (and I certainly can’t argue with the craftsmanship), but there’s obviously a fine line between quality-construction and over-construction.

For instance, our floors are built with TJI joists, which are engineered I-beams made of wood. We have a lot of them and each is supported by a joist hanger. I don’t believe this actually all that uncommon (and I would have requested them regardless), but I’m told our approach was far more involved (so as to eliminate bulkheads). This meant that each joist had to be cut, glued, nailed into a hanger… ultimately resulting in more work for the framers.

Second Floor Framing Similarly, we apparently “have enough LVLs to build three homes” (as one of the trades told me). LVLs are dense beams engineered from laminated veneer lumber, and we’ve got them all over the house. We also had to reinforce the structure with shear walls, which meant we needed to sheath the exterior walls with thicker plywood, and affix the walls to the floor with a series of substantial bolts.

Beyond the TJIs, LVLs and shear walls, we also have plenty of steel beams and columns… All of which have added up to a pretty substantial structure. Too much structure? It seemed that way, so I inquired why the house was designed as it is. I got a pretty detailed explanation, but there were 3 primary reasons:

  1. Windows. In retrospect it seems painfully obvious, but the size and number of windows demanded that we increase the structure to compensate for the reduction of studs. Apparently glass isn’t as strong as wood. Who knew.
  2. Aesthetics. We wanted large open spaces and crisp clean lines. To accomplish this, we obviously had to reduce the number of load-bearing walls and bulkheads throughout the house. Similarly, we decided we wanted to cantilever the 2 overhangs instead of supporting them with beams.
  1. The clerestory. The large two-story opening displaced everything in the middle of the house, which meant we needed to compensate by beefing up the structure around it.

    I can’t say I expected to build the house this way when we began, but I understand how we got here. I mean, I obviously wanted to build the best home we can, but I also don’t want to overspend on it.

    So have we gone overboard with the structure? I certainly hope not.

    You can take a closer look at the structure in the photo gallery

  • Oct 31

How Green Is Green Enough?

The 2nd of 5 articles I’m writing for the Globe and Mail was published today, in which I reflect on our environmental commitments. As I mention in the article, one thing I’ve learned during this project is that ‘being green’ means different things to different people. I’m sure people will take this opportunity to criticize what we have or haven’t done with our project, but I thought it was important to start a discussion about the broader topic.

So I’m curious, what does being green mean to you?

  • Oct 28

The Cost Of Water

We’ve made significant progress in the past week, although the sky opened up on Saturday and I fear the rain may slow us down over the next few days. Regardless, the walls are all up on the second floor and I managed to slip in over the weekend to snap a few pics. I actually visited the site a few days prior, although it was quite late (read: it was pitch black and I was using my iPhone as a flashlight), and not exactly the safe (read: the temporary stairs had been installed, but not the railing). Probably not the smartest of things to explore after dark, but I couldn’t resist going upstairs and having a walk around.

Second Floor Framing Now that the walls are up, we’ve realized that we want to mildly adjust the layout of the bathrooms and our closet area. Nothing too major, but we felt some of the walking areas are a little tighter than they should be. Other than that, everything is looking great. And I must admit, the framers are doing a fantastic job. Our contractor had insisted that they did great work, but thought for sure I’d be walking around each day with a level and measuring tape, ensuring everything was in order. After the first few days however, it became quite clear these guys knew what they were doing. If all goes according to plan, hopefully we’ll have the roof up before weeks end, and the windows in sometime next week. Given the temperature forecast, I think the timing might just work out.

Framing aside, I also stopped by Toronto Water Services this morning to pay for the reconnection fees. Prior to construction, the city didn’t charge us to come and disconnect the drainage and water supply. I didn’t really think much of it at the time, but I kept waiting to see a bill in the mail afterwards. Clearly the City understands that you’ll eventually need to reconnect everything, ‘cause they get you on the back end. The process was quite painless, although it was also quite expensive.

  • Drain Installation: $6750
  • Water Installation: $2175
  • Water Disconnect: $300
  • Sewer Disconnect: $650
  • “Other”: $660

    Grand Total: $10,535

    Yes, it costs over $10K to get new water services.

    The racket here is that you can’t negotiate. You can’t shop around to find a more competitive price. The City gives you a price and they inform you which company will be doing the work. And that’s that. I can appreciate that the City needs to ensure that quality is controlled, but this just seems like extortion when compared to the other costs we’ll need to cover during the project. Purely from a cost:effort standpoint, the amount seems incredibly exorbitant… and don’t forget, we still need to account for hydro and gas reconnections.

    Photo via Flickr User Chad Ingraham>

  • Oct 19

Heavy Lifting

With the first floor more or less complete the framers have moved upstairs… however they didn’t get very far without first needing to move the final steel beams into place. I previously described the excavator as being large, but that puppy wasn’t anywhere close to the size and scale of the crane that showed up to move these beams.

The Crane The second floor has 3 steel beams, so the crane was in and out pretty quickly. I can’t say I was expecting it would have any trouble picking up the beams, but I honestly thought there would be move involved with it. A set of legs extend out from the base of the crane and then drop down to the ground. Supported by this wider base, the arm was extended out and the hook lowered. The workers simply tied a strap around a beam, connected it to the hook and hoisted it up.

Once the beams were properly installed, the framers were able to continue and they’ve more or less finished installing all the floor joists. It’s great to walk around the main floor and finally get a sense of how the rooms will actually feel. I was a little concerned that we made a mistake by raising the dinning room up a foot (the ceiling height is 8’ vs 9’ 2” in the kitchen), but I think it’ll be just fine now that I’ve actually been in there.

I’m expecting we’ll start to see the walls go up on the second floor… hopefully the weather cooperates.